Riding Waves: BIG Bazzas and getting air...

Any riders of the waves out there? I'm calling out to all the spongers, stand-ups, old-men-longboarders and goat boaters...We all surf and love the water, are there any of youse here?

I'm a sponger myself...I just love getting barrels! I'm fond of an ol' waz on a longboard if the waves are small, but there ain't nuthin' like pulling in and getting covered-up! Sure, you can do it on a short-board but the chances are less frequent and theres the likelihood of snapping yer board, which is expensive...

Anyway, where do you do it and what vehicle do you ride? Thoughts, reflections and ramblings are welcome too...

I've added a poll, for some added distraction...

This is a photo of me at one of my local breaks back home...

"Well", said the ditch to the valley..."I guess there ain't no other surfers in here..."

I'm a sponger too! 😱 I usually ride in Santa Cruz, right off to the side of steamers lane. Last I went was in Carmel and Cresent City where I also surfed for my first time last September. But yeah, I have an old school Mach 10 with the quicksilver bottom. 🙂

I heard Steamers gets pretty localised...

Mach 10 is ooooooooooooooooooold! I had my first Mach 7-7 about 15 years ago! It was top of the line then, but it's waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay outta wack now. Now, I've got a Eddie Soloman signiture board, but I need a new one. It's all creased...

Did you start surfing in September, or was that the 'first time' you had surfed that specific spot?

I'm a di*k dragger who'd rather be surfing. I only have a 2 door prelude so a surfboard won't fit in it and there's now way I'm getting a roof rack.

Teahupoo is the sketchiest wave on that list because it never really gets higher than 20 feet...instead the lip gets uber thick and one wrong move and you become one with the coral.

Though if you're Laird Hamilton and you're taking lefts on Mavericks....then that would be the sketchiest. Hell, I didn't think lefts on Mavericks were possible...

Originally posted by Linkalicious
Though if you're Laird Hamilton and you're taking lefts on Mavericks....then that would be the sketchiest. Hell, I didn't think lefts on Mavericks were possible...

I think you mean taking lefts at Jaws...It's true though, Laird is a frickin' freak...

Oooo, Typhoon swell! Gotta love dat shit! Head-high and off-shore...Sweeeeet.

I just learned how to surf last week. My instructer said I was better than about 90-95% of beginners. Stood up first try and the wave carried me all the way to the beach. This is one thing I'll miss about California.

That swell chart was a jib! It was about knee-high with 200-odd kooks barging around with their mals. Stupid summer surfers...

I've felt far too bone-dry for far too long. Curse you, bless'ed rat race!

The drought shall end in a week and a day's time...Micronesia here I come! Woo-hoo!