Any riders of the waves out there? I'm calling out to all the spongers, stand-ups, old-men-longboarders and goat boaters...We all surf and love the water, are there any of youse here?
I'm a sponger myself...I just love getting barrels! I'm fond of an ol' waz on a longboard if the waves are small, but there ain't nuthin' like pulling in and getting covered-up! Sure, you can do it on a short-board but the chances are less frequent and theres the likelihood of snapping yer board, which is expensive...
Anyway, where do you do it and what vehicle do you ride? Thoughts, reflections and ramblings are welcome too...
I've added a poll, for some added distraction...
__________________ Come, my child...Your life begins here...
Gender: Male Location: Sailing the seas of cheese.
I'm a sponger too! I usually ride in Santa Cruz, right off to the side of steamers lane. Last I went was in Carmel and Cresent City where I also surfed for my first time last September. But yeah, I have an old school Mach 10 with the quicksilver bottom.
Mach 10 is ooooooooooooooooooold! I had my first Mach 7-7 about 15 years ago! It was top of the line then, but it's waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay outta wack now. Now, I've got a Eddie Soloman signiture board, but I need a new one. It's all creased...
Did you start surfing in September, or was that the 'first time' you had surfed that specific spot?
__________________ Come, my child...Your life begins here...
Gender: Male Location: Huntington Beach, California
I'm a di*k dragger who'd rather be surfing. I only have a 2 door prelude so a surfboard won't fit in it and there's now way I'm getting a roof rack.
Teahupoo is the sketchiest wave on that list because it never really gets higher than 20 feet...instead the lip gets uber thick and one wrong move and you become one with the coral.
Though if you're Laird Hamilton and you're taking lefts on Mavericks....then that would be the sketchiest. Hell, I didn't think lefts on Mavericks were possible...
Oooo, Typhoon swell! Gotta love dat shit! Head-high and off-shore...Sweeeeet.
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__________________ Full fathom five thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made;
Those are pearls that were his eyes:
Nothing of him that doth fade
But doth suffer a sea-change
Into something rich and strange.
I just learned how to surf last week. My instructer said I was better than about 90-95% of beginners. Stood up first try and the wave carried me all the way to the beach. This is one thing I'll miss about California.
__________________
Greg Oden: The future of the Blazers. The future of the NBA.
That swell chart was a jib! It was about knee-high with 200-odd kooks barging around with their mals. Stupid summer surfers...
__________________ Full fathom five thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made;
Those are pearls that were his eyes:
Nothing of him that doth fade
But doth suffer a sea-change
Into something rich and strange.
I've felt far too bone-dry for far too long. Curse you, bless'ed rat race!
The drought shall end in a week and a day's time...Micronesia here I come! Woo-hoo!
__________________ Full fathom five thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made;
Those are pearls that were his eyes:
Nothing of him that doth fade
But doth suffer a sea-change
Into something rich and strange.