Due to limited resources we are only able to do restorations / repairs on OUR OWN inventory and unable to take OUTSIDE / CUSTOMER repairs.
If you need work done to your gear,
>TRY SOME OF THESE RESOURCES<
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ATTENTION: We recommend you DO NOT DISASSEMBLE or ATTEMPT TO REPAIR OR REPLACE ANY PARTS ON ANY ELECTRONIC / ELECTRICAL DEVICE without proper, technical training and repairs / modifications should always be left to qualified technicians.
"WARNING: PLEASE USE CAUTION WITH ANY ELECTRICAL DEVICE. ANY REPAIR AND / OR RESTORATION SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN ONLY BY A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN. DO NOT OPEN OR ATTEMPT TO REPAIR ANY ELECTRONIC DEVICE WITHOUT PROPER INSTRUCTION, EXPERIENCE, BACKGROUND, TRAINING OR KNOWLEDGE, OR TAKING PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. THERE ARE NO 'USER SERVICEABLE' PARTS, SYSTEMS OR CIRCUITS INSIDE. POTENTIALLY HARMFUL, INJURIOUS AND / OR LETHAL ELECTRIC VOLTAGE AND CURRENT INSIDE."
The following information is for 'entertainment value' ONLY and not intended as 'how to' / DIY instructions, and by NO MEANS is it instruction on how to repair, nor intended as incentive nor encouragement to tackle any electronic repairs yourself!
These are some of the more common issues we get emails and calls about.
Most of these issues can be solved by the user, for little or no money and using a logical 'process of elimination'.
This is not meant to substitute as instructions, advice, nor in any way, training for anyone not already correctly and competently qualified in electronics repair / restoration for issues / repairs that require proper training or a qualified electronics technician.
When in doubt, don't do it yourself and consult a professional.
Stereo Receiver / Integrated Amplifier
/ Pre-Amplifier / Audio-System Q&A:
Issue: My Stereo Receiver / amplifier / system will not power up or 'turn-on'...
A: Assuming you've done the obvious of making sure you have a 'good' (hot) AC outlet to connect to, and you've paid your utility bill, there's not much that falls into the realm of 'user serviceable' solutions. Of course there could be an 'externally located' AC / Mains fuse on the rear of the unit. Easy enough to check (make sure that the unit is disconnected from AC power prior to removing the fuse cap). More likely there are 'internally located' AC / Mains fuses, along with others. That becomes a bit more involved to locate and change, and may not fall within the 'skill set' of many users. Beyond 'fuses' there's not much you can do, except find a service station that would be willing to take a look.
Issue: The sound on my Stereo Receiver / amplifier cuts out at any volume and on any source...
A: The most common cause of sound intermittently cutting out on one or both sides of a receiver / amplifier is a dirty 'Tape Monitor' switch(es) followed next by a dirty / corroded 'Input Selector' switch.
To troubleshoot, individually manipulate each ‘Tape Monitor’ switch rapidly numerous while monitoring the sound until you find the switch that affects / improves the performance. If that affects it, then the switch needs to be cleaned or ultimately replaced if cleaning does not fix it sufficiently. If the ‘tape monitor’ switches have no effect, then examine the ‘input / source’ selector with the same procedures. If still no effect, then start touching / manipulating the rotary controls such as Volume, Balance / Tone etc, Loudness, Audio-Mute, Stereo / Mono switch etc. Also check the ‘source’ connector cables (RCA) for connection integrity / quality.
If the sound tends to cut out only at lower volumes, then it is likely corroded contacts in the ‘Speaker Selector’ switches. This can usually be deduced by carefully manipulating the speaker selector(s) while listening at a lower volume. If the sound tries to come back while pushing / turning / flipping the speaker switches, then that is the likely culprit. Cleaning a 'speaker selector' switch with a liquid agent might address it, but it usually requires a more aggressive method such as disassembly of the switch to allow ‘burnishing’ of the internal contacts. They have likely been ‘arcing’ due to the higher current that passes through the speaker selector switches and liquid cleaners will not fix that. If the arcing has severely ‘pitted’ the contacts, they may need to be replaced.
Issue: Volume, Balance, Tone controls have static when turned or moved on my Stereo System...
A; This is one of the most common issues with any unit over about 5 years, old and certainly most any unit that would be considered ‘vintage’. The problem is usually solved by a thorough cleaning (by someone qualified) with an appropriate cleaning agent such as GC Electronics-De-Ox-Id, Caig DeoxIT D5 or G5, De-Oxit, Chemtronics, MG Chemicals 'Electrosolve' Contact Cleaner, TechSpray contact cleaners / tuner cleaner spray, or similar (beware of the ‘super cold’ cleaners on some of the older internal plastic / nylon components, as they can be ‘shattered’. Also, some cleaners / solvents can 'melt' plastic parts or react with plastic internal and cosmetic parts). All the controls and (and switches as possible) should be cleaned at the same time while a tech is in there. If after repeated cleaning the problem persists or it only works for a limited time after a proper cleaning, then ultimately the control / switch may need to be replaced. PS. I have folks tell me all the time that they “removed the knobs and squirted some of that cleaner back in there and it didn’t help at all”. That would be akin to opening your fuel tank door on your car, pointing the nozzle at the gas cap and pulling the trigger. Unless you remove the cap and actually ‘insert’ the nozzle, nothing gets in. Unless you go into a control potentiometer (sometimes erroneously referred to as a 'rheostat', which is a different kind of 'attenuation' control, usually used for larger amounts of current, than a 'variable resistor / potentiometer'😉or switch from ‘typically’ rear-located access ports and flood the control internally, no cleaner gets to where it should.
A note about sourcing replacement switches, pots / potentiometers / controls for vintage stereo / audio gear.
Most parts are fairly to VERY specific not only to a particular brand, but specific down to a ‘handful’ of models and sometimes unique to ONLY ONE MODEL. There are many parameters to finding a replacement part, especially potentiometers. Besides the resistive value, there’s ‘taper’ as in ‘Audio taper’ or ‘linear taper’, some potentiometers such as ‘balance’ pots have a ‘center detent’ / notch, some are double stacked, some are quad stacked, the legs / terminals usually need to be of the same dimensions (although you may be able to 'scab' on leads), the metal ‘body’ may need to be of a particular dimension (some are large and some are small(er), the mounting thread diameter and length are likely critical, the shaft length, shape and design are almost ALWAYS critical, there may be an unusual current value assigned to it, it may have multiple ‘jobs’ and have other terminals on top etc.
Bottom line is, you probably ‘ain’t gonna go to Radio Shack and pick one up’. If fact probably the only place you’re going to find a suitable replacement is from a salvage / donor unit (unless you don’t care about the originality of the unit, exact performance, exact look etc, then hey, you could probably make ‘spit, some old carpet lint and duct tape’ work). Potential sources for parts you could ‘make fit’ might be: www.oaktreevintage.com/Stereo_Parts_Salvage_Units.htm , www.dalbani.com , www.electronix.com , www.mcminone.com , www.newark.com , www.studiosoundelectronics.com , www.suburban-elect.com , www.tedss.com
If you have a parts source to suggest, or 'are' a source for potential parts, let us know and we'll consider adding the info.
Issue: When I ‘touch’ the: ‘Volume’, ‘Balance’, ‘Bass’, ‘Treble’, (etc) controls the sound cuts out. I don’t even have to turn them. Actually they sound fine when I turn them, only when I ‘push’ / ‘pull’ / ‘touch’ / 'jiggle' them does the sound cut out...
A: That is a less common issue and if we rule out ‘dirt’ or corrosion, then the next likely suspect would be bad solder joints or ‘cold’ solder joints. Re-flowing the solder joints by someone qualified usually is the fix.
Issue: The sound on my stereo cuts out, but only at ‘higher’ volumes...
A: If everything is generally OK at lower volumes (say below 8:30AM or 9:00AM, if you imagine a 'clock face' on the stereo units' volume control), and you’ve ruled out the above issues, then consider some of the following possibilities as potential causes;
-A single strand of speaker wire just ‘touching’ a neighboring strand can allow an amplifier to function, but likely at an elevated temperature, which will reduce it’s ability to perform at elevated volumes. Since ‘higher’ volumes means higher temperatures, any unnecessary increase reduces the amount of ‘leeway’ an amp has to do it’s job. The amplifier will run hotter than it typically should.
Solution; Inspect and rectify speaker wire connections.